What Should You Check Before Buying a Used Washing Machine? 15 Things Every Buyer Should Know

By Just Washers & DryersPublished October 14, 202612 min read

Buying a used washing machine can save you hundreds of dollars, but there's one rule every buyer should follow: never assume a washer works just because it looks clean or turns on.

A washer can have a spotless cabinet, control panel and basket and still hide serious mechanical problems. It might fill with water but not agitate. It might wash but not drain. Or it might seem fine until the spin cycle starts, when worn bearings or suspension parts give themselves away.

At Just Washers & Dryers, we believe a washer's condition matters far more than its looks. Whether you're buying on Facebook Marketplace, from a private seller or from a refurbished appliance dealer, knowing what to check helps you avoid expensive repairs and disappointing purchases.

Here are the 15 checks, the warning signs to watch for, and how to spot a washer that's worth buying.

1. Inspect the exterior for rust, dents and water damage

Before turning the machine on, look closely at the cabinet, control panel, lid and bottom edges. Minor scratches and small dents are usually cosmetic and don't affect how well the machine washes. Heavy rust or corrosion can point to a bigger problem.

Where to look for rust

• The bottom edges of the cabinet
• Around the water connections
• The underside of the machine, if you can safely see it
• Around the detergent dispenser
• The lid hinges and metal seams

Rust near the bottom can mean repeated water exposure or an old leak. A little surface rust doesn't make a machine defective, but heavy corrosion should make you cautious.

Our advice: don't pass on a mechanically sound washer because of a few scratches, and don't overlook serious corrosion because the price is tempting.

2. Check the wash basket and drum for damage

Open the washer and look inside. On a top-load washer, check the stainless-steel or porcelain-coated basket for cracks, sharp edges, broken plastic parts or unusual wear. On a front-load washer, check the drum and the rubber door gasket. A damaged gasket can leak while the machine runs.

Also look for trapped debris, heavy detergent buildup, and mold or mildew.

Should the drum move when you push it?

Yes, a little. Washers have suspension systems that let the tub move while running. But a drum that's very loose, scrapes, grinds or looks out of line can mean mechanical trouble. On a front-loader, a lot of play between the inner drum and the outer tub can point to bearing or support problems, and major bearing repairs can be expensive, especially on models that need a whole new tub assembly.

3. Turn the drum by hand and listen

This simple check can reveal problems before the washer is even connected. With the machine off, gently turn the basket or drum by hand and listen.

A smooth, quiet turn is a good sign. Grinding, scraping or a rough rumble deserves a closer look. Keep in mind that designs differ: some machines naturally resist or make some sound when turned by hand, so a hand-spin test alone can't prove a washer is sound.

Why it matters

A washer with worn bearings may run at first and then get very loud at high spin speed. If the fix requires major disassembly, the repair can cost more than the machine is worth.

Our advice: if you hear loud grinding or see unusual drum movement, don't buy until you know the cause.

4. Test the water fill

A washer has to fill with the right amount of water before it can wash. If the seller has it hooked up, start a normal cycle and make sure water comes in properly. If you can, test both hot and cold.

Common fill problems

A washer that fills slowly or not at all may have:

• Clogged inlet screens
• A bad water inlet valve
• A damaged supply hose
• A faulty water-level sensor
• An electrical or control problem
• Low water pressure in the home

Some of these are cheap to fix; others need more diagnosis. Either way, a washer that powers on but doesn't fill properly isn't ready to use.

5. Make sure it actually agitates or tumbles

This is one of the most important tests. On a top-load washer, an agitator or impeller moves clothes through the water. A front-load washer turns the drum to lift and tumble the clothes. A machine that fills but doesn't move the clothes has a mechanical or electrical problem.

What stops a washer from agitating?

Depending on the model:

• A worn or broken drive belt
• A bad motor or motor-control part
• A damaged transmission or gearcase
• A failed actuator
• Worn agitator parts
• A control-system fault

Washers use different drive systems. For example, many older Whirlpool-built washers are direct-drive, while others use belts and different transmissions. That's why knowing the exact model matters.

Our advice: watch the washer run a normal wash. Filling with water doesn't mean it works.

6. Test the drain pump

A washer that can't drain isn't a working washer. After the wash part of the cycle, the water should pump out. Listen while the pump runs: some noise is normal, but loud grinding, rattling, or humming with no water moving can mean a problem.

What stops a washer from draining?

• A clogged drain hose
• A blocked pump
• A small object stuck in the pump
• A damaged pump impeller
• A bad drain pump motor
• A control or wiring problem

Sometimes the fix is simple, like removing a sock or coin from the pump. But don't assume every drain problem is minor. If the washer leaves standing water in the tub, find out why before you buy.

7. Pay special attention to the spin cycle

If there's one part of the cycle to watch closely, it's the spin. The basket spins fast to pull water out of the clothes, which puts heavy stress on the drive system, bearings and suspension. A washer that fills and washes normally can still show problems here.

Warning signs during the spin

• Heavy shaking
• Loud grinding or roaring
• Repeated banging
• Not reaching normal spin speed
• Stopping over and over
• Clothes still very wet after spinning

Some vibration is normal, and an uneven load or an unlevel washer can also cause shaking. But violent movement or steady mechanical noise can mean worn suspension parts, bad bearings or other problems.

A practical example

Say you're looking at two washers. The first looks almost new but roars during the spin. The second has a few scratches but finishes the whole cycle quietly. If they're otherwise similar, we'd pick the second one every time. Good looks don't make up for a potentially expensive mechanical problem.

8. Check for leaks while it runs

Leaks don't just hurt the washer. They can damage floors, cabinets, walls and anything nearby. Watch the machine while it fills, washes, drains and spins, and look for water around the base and hose connections.

Common leak sources

• Water inlet hoses
• Internal fill hoses
• Drain hoses
• Drain pumps
• Tub seals
• Door gaskets
• Detergent dispensers
• Cracked plastic parts

Some leaks are cheap to fix; others involve major parts. A washer that leaks only during the spin may have a different problem from one that leaks while filling.

Our advice: never assume water under a washer is just condensation or a loose hose. Find the source before you buy.

9. Listen for unusual noises

Sounds can't confirm a diagnosis, but they're useful clues about which machines need a closer look.

A washer doesn't have to be silent, but unusual noises should be checked, not ignored. Notice when the noise happens: a noise during washing usually has a different cause from one that only happens during the spin.

10. Test the controls and electronics

Many washers have electronic control boards, sensors, lid locks and digital displays, and even traditional-looking models can have more electronics than you'd expect. Try the controls. Make sure the machine responds correctly when you choose cycles, temperatures and other settings, and watch for error codes or odd behavior.

Why electronic problems matter

Some electronic parts are expensive. A washer that stops mid-cycle now and then could have a control problem, but it could also be a sensor, wiring or mechanical fault, and replacing the wrong part gets costly. Before buying a machine with an unsolved electronic problem, decide whether the repair is worth it.

11. Check the lid lock or door lock

Many washers have safety locks that stop certain functions unless the lid or door is closed. Top-loaders often lock the lid before spinning; front-loaders usually lock the door the whole cycle. If the lock fails, the washer may not start, may stop mid-cycle or may show an error.

Make sure the lid or door closes properly and the lock works as designed. Never bypass a safety lock to make a washer run. A damaged lock should be repaired correctly.

12. Inspect the water hoses and connections

Hoses are easy to overlook, but old, cracked, bulging or damaged hoses can leak or burst. Check the visible connections for corrosion, damage and signs of past leaks. Make sure the washer has standard water inlet connections and that the drain hose is there and undamaged.

Should you reuse old washer hoses?

We recommend new, properly rated supply hoses when you install a used washer, especially if the old hoses are worn or their age is unknown. Follow the appliance and hose makers' instructions. A new set of hoses is cheap insurance against water damage.

When we deliver a washer, new hot and cold fill hoses are included, and we level the washer and run a test cycle with you. See what comes with every delivery and installation.

13. Look for signs of poor repairs

A past repair isn't a bad thing. Replacing a worn part with the correct one can extend a machine's life. Poor repairs, though, can create safety and reliability problems.

Look for obvious warning signs: a damaged power cord, missing panels, loose parts or makeshift wiring. Don't remove panels or reach into electrical areas on a plugged-in machine. If you see signs of unsafe changes, have a qualified appliance technician look at it.

Is a repaired washer worth buying?

Often, yes. A washer with a properly replaced drain pump or inlet valve can be a great buy. The key is knowing what was repaired, whether the right parts were used, and whether the machine now runs properly.

14. Find the model number and check parts availability

Before you buy, find the model number. It's usually on a label inside the lid opening, around the door frame or on the back of the cabinet. The model number helps you find out:

• Roughly how old the model is
• Which replacement parts are available
• Common repairs
• Safety recalls (you can search at CPSC.gov)
• The manufacturer's manual
• Whether major parts have been discontinued

This matters most with older machines. A washer may work perfectly today but be hard to fix later if a key part fails and can't be found.

Why parts availability matters so much

Say you buy a washer for $200, and six months later the electronic control board fails. If the new board is unavailable or costs more than the washer is worth, you'll be shopping for a new washer. A serviceable model with common parts is usually the better long-term value.

15. Ask about the warranty and return policy

Before you pay, ask what happens if the machine stops working soon after you buy it. Coverage varies a lot: many private sellers offer none, some dealers cover only certain parts, and others offer broader protection.

Questions to ask

• How long does the warranty last?
• Does it cover parts and labor?
• Is there a separate service-call charge?
• What happens if the machine can't be repaired?
• Does it cover pickup or transportation?
• What's excluded, such as misuse or improper installation?
• Is it in writing?

A verbal promise isn't the same as a clear written warranty. Every machine we sell comes with a 90-day parts and labor warranty, and you can file a warranty claim online. The full details are in our Terms of Service.

Should you buy a washer that can't be tested?

This happens a lot. You find a washer at a great price, but it's already disconnected and sitting in a garage, storage unit or warehouse. The seller says it worked perfectly before it was unhooked. Should you buy it?

Be cautious. There may be good reasons it can't be tested, but you're taking on more risk. A washer that powers on without water hooked up hasn't really been tested: you can't check that it fills, washes, drains, spins and runs without leaking.

If you buy an untested machine, the price should reflect the risk, and you should know the seller's return policy first. With us, you can inspect your machines at the door before you pay the balance, and our team runs a test cycle with you after hookup.

How much should you pay for a used washing machine?

It depends on age, brand, capacity, condition and what's included. As a general guide, a basic used top-load washer often runs about $150 to $300. A professionally refurbished or newer machine may cost more. Our refurbished washers are $259 delivered and hooked up, or $235 if you pick up.

A lower price doesn't always mean better value. Here's an example:

In this example, the higher-priced washer costs $166 less overall. The untested washer is hypothetical, and any machine can have problems later, but the comparison shows why you should look at total cost. Our delivery fee is $0, $25 or $75 depending on your ZIP code; this example uses $25. See all prices and fees.

For a complete pricing guide, read How Much Should You Pay for a Used Washer and Dryer?

What are the biggest red flags?

We'd be especially cautious about a washer with:

• Loud bearing noise during the spin
• A significant leak
• Heavy rust on the cabinet or frame
• A burning smell nobody can explain
• A damaged or bypassed safety lock
• Repeated error codes
• Violent shaking with a normal load
• A cracked tub or other major part
• Key replacement parts that are missing or discontinued
• Signs of flood damage

Some of these can be fixed, but repairs can quickly cost more than a used machine is worth. If you see several warning signs, keep shopping. See 7 warning signs to avoid for more. Read more about the trade-offs in Is Buying a Used Washer and Dryer Worth It?

Is a used top-load or front-load washer better?

Both have advantages.

• Top-load washers appeal to budget-minded buyers because they're familiar, easy to use and common on the used market. Many are also fairly simple to service.
• Front-load washers clean very well and use less water. But some repairs, like bearings, drum assemblies or door seals, can be expensive, and they need room in front for the door to open.

Neither is always better. If affordability, ease of use and practical repair costs matter most, we often recommend a standard top-load washer in good condition. If efficiency, special cycles or a particular laundry setup matter more, a front-load washer may be the better fit. We carry both; tell us your preference in the order notes and we'll match what's in stock.

Frequently asked questions

How do I test a used washing machine before buying it?

Run a full normal cycle with the washer hooked up to water and power. Watch it fill with hot and cold water, agitate or tumble, drain completely and spin at full speed, and check for leaks and unusual noises the whole time.

What is the most important thing to check on a used washer?

The spin cycle. It puts the most stress on the bearings, suspension and drive system, so it's where many expensive problems show up. Loud roaring or violent shaking during the spin are major red flags.

Should I buy a used washer that can't be hooked up and tested?

Only with caution. An untested washer could have problems with filling, draining, leaking or spinning that you can't see. The price should reflect that risk, and you should know the return policy before you pay.

Should I replace the hoses on a used washer?

Yes, especially if the old hoses are worn or their age is unknown. New, properly rated hoses are inexpensive and help prevent water damage. Our washers are installed with new hot and cold fill hoses.

How much should I pay for a used washing machine?

A basic used top-load washer often costs about $150 to $300. Our refurbished washers are $259 delivered with new hoses, hookup, haul-away of your old washer and a 90-day parts and labor warranty.

Final thoughts

A used washer can be a great buy, as long as you judge it by how it runs, not how it looks. Watch it fill, wash, drain and spin. Check for leaks and listen for trouble. Make sure parts are available and get the warranty in writing.

Keep reading

• Used Washer and Dryer Brands to Avoid: 7 Warning Signs
• Best Used Washer and Dryer Brands: 7 Brands Worth Buying
• Is Buying a Used Washer and Dryer Worth It? Pros & Cons

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